The Men's Shirt Construction Guide
The ConstructionGuide
The details beneath the print — collar, cuff, placket, buttons and the hidden linings that make a Claudio Lugli a Claudio Lugli.
A bold print gets the attention; the construction earns the loyalty. A Claudio Lugli shirt is built to reward a closer look — the contrast under the collar, the printed lining inside the cuff, the multicolour buttons you only notice up close. These are not accidents. They are the signatures that separate a designed shirt from a printed one.
This is the anatomy of the shirt. Every element below is a genuine part of how ours are made — the finishing details we return to season after season. Read it with the Fabric Library for the cloth and the Fit & Sizing Guide for how it wears.
The Collar
The collar is where the shirt makes its first impression. Many Claudio Lugli shirts carry a double button collar for a sharper, more considered stand, and a concealed under-collar button — a hidden fastening that keeps the collar sitting cleanly whether worn open or done up.
It is a small piece of engineering with a big effect: the collar holds its shape rather than collapsing, so an open neck still looks deliberate.
Turn the collar and you will often find a contrast lining and that hidden under-collar button.
The Cuffs
The cuffs are built to be worn, and worn your way. Adjustable button cuffs let you set the fit at the wrist, and many styles carry a contrast lining or print inside the cuff — a flash of colour that shows when the sleeve is turned back.
Roll the sleeve and the shirt reveals a second layer of design. It is detailing meant to be discovered, not shouted.
Turn a cuff back to reveal the contrast lining — a deliberate reward for rolling your sleeves.
The Placket
Down the front, the placket is a signature. Many shirts feature contrast lining and piping on the placket and inside placket detailing — a contrasting cloth or colour running behind the button strip that frames the fastening and adds depth to the front of the shirt.
It is the kind of finish you notice when the shirt is worn slightly open, and it lifts the whole front from plain to designed.
The strip behind the buttons often carries a contrast colour or print — detail on detail.
The Buttons
Buttons are the easiest detail to overlook and the quickest way to tell a designed shirt from a basic one. Claudio Lugli shirts frequently use contrast or multicolour buttons, chosen to pick up the tones of the print rather than disappear into it.
It is a deliberately playful touch — a row of small colour notes that reward the eye and tie the whole shirt together.
Check the buttons: they are chosen to echo the print, not just to fasten the shirt.
The Hidden Linings
This is the most Claudio Lugli detail of all. Across the collection, shirts carry a hidden printed lining inside the collar stand, cuffs or placket — a second, often completely different print concealed within the shirt. Roses inside a plain shirt, bees, feathers, dots: a private design only the wearer knows is there.
It is the clearest expression of the house philosophy — that a great shirt has a story on the inside as well as the outside.
The best detail is the one no one else sees — the print hidden inside the shirt.
The Cut & Finish
Underneath the detailing sits a tailored regular fit — shaped through the body for a clean line, cut consistently across all nine sizes from S to 6XL. The print is placed with intention, so it reads as designed rather than simply stamped on.
The result is a shirt that holds its shape and its story from the first wear. For how the fit works and how to size, read the Fit & Sizing Guide.
Tailored line, intentional print placement, cut properly across the whole S–6XL range.
The Cloth
All of it is built on premium cloth. Satin-weave Egyptian cotton gives the signature sheen and drape; cotton poplin brings crisp structure; TENCEL adds fluid softness; linen keeps it breathable for the heat. The fabric is chosen to carry the print sharply and hold its colour wash after wash.
Cloth, cut and detailing are designed together — which is why the whole shirt hangs right. The full breakdown is in the Fabric Library.
Premium cloth chosen to carry the print and hold its colour — the foundation of the whole shirt.
The details you cannot see matter as much as the ones you can. A hidden lining, a contrast placket, the right button — that is where a shirt stops being printed and starts being designed.Hoss Salimian — Founder, Claudio Lugli
Questions, answered
Beyond the exclusive London-designed print, it is the construction: a double button collar with a concealed under-collar button, adjustable contrast-lined cuffs, contrast piping on the placket, multicolour buttons, and often a hidden printed lining inside the shirt. The details reward a closer look.
Many Claudio Lugli shirts feature a double button collar for a sharper stand, along with a concealed under-collar button that keeps the collar sitting cleanly whether worn open or done up. Short-sleeve and Hawaiian styles use a relaxed camp collar built to be worn open.
Yes. Contrast lining and piping on the placket, contrast linings inside the cuffs and collar, and multicolour buttons are recurring signatures. They add depth to the front of the shirt and a flash of colour when the cuffs are turned back.
Across the collection, shirts carry a concealed printed lining inside the collar stand, cuffs or placket — often a completely different print from the outside, such as roses, bees or dots. It is a private design detail only the wearer knows is there.
The buttons are a considered part of the design, frequently in contrast or multicolour tones chosen to pick up the colours of the print rather than disappear into it. It is a deliberate finishing touch that ties the whole shirt together.
See the details for yourself
Every Claudio Lugli shirt is designed in London as a limited edition, cut in nine sizes from S to 6XL. Rated “Excellent” on Trustpilot, 4.8/5 from 1,200+ reviews.
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