The masquerade ball outfit for men is a black-ground baroque print shirt, buttoned to the collar, under a plain black single-breasted jacket, with black wool trousers, black leather Oxfords and a simple black half-mask on a ribbon. The gold Baroque Dynasty print does the ornament; everything else stays quiet so the print reads as art, not costume.
This is day 13 of our daily Dark Season series. Yesterday covered the black-tie Halloween ball; today is its more theatrical cousin. Masquerade season runs from late September right through to New Year, and the invitations that land in October all say the same thing: masks required, costume optional. Take the second half of that sentence seriously.
What should a man wear to a masquerade ball?
A dark ornamental print shirt, a plain black jacket, black trousers, black leather shoes and a mask that covers the eyes and nothing more. The baroque print is the point. It was designed for exactly this room: gilt scrollwork, acanthus leaves, candlelight bouncing off satin cotton. Wear it fully buttoned, with the collar sitting inside the jacket lapel, and let the mask be the only other decorative object on your body.
If the invitation says black tie masquerade, follow the black-tie rules and add a mask. If it says masquerade with no dress code stated, the outfit above is correct. If it says fancy dress, you are still allowed to turn up looking like the best-dressed man there.
Is a baroque print too much for a masquerade?
No. A masquerade is the one night of the year where a baroque print is understated. The room will be full of capes, feathers, corsets and men in rented frock coats. A black shirt covered in gold scrollwork, worn with the discipline of a plain jacket and plain trousers, looks like the only man who understood the assignment. The print says opulence; the tailoring says control.
Which prints work for a masquerade?
Three families. First, true baroque: gold scrollwork on black, the print that was born in a Venetian palazzo. Second, plumage: peacock feathers in teal and orange on black read as pure carnival without a single sequin. Third, ecclesiastical: a stained-glass window print on a cream ground brings the cathedral into the ballroom and photographs beautifully under a chandelier. Avoid the skull prints tonight - they belong to Halloween proper and will look like you misread the invitation.
How should the shirt be worn on the night?
Buttoned to the top, every button, with the cuffs fastened. A baroque print with two buttons undone looks like a Sunday. The collar sits inside the jacket lapel and the jacket stays on until at least midnight. If you must remove it, the shirt is tucked, the belt is plain black leather with a small square buckle, and the trousers sit at the natural waist so the print is not interrupted by a strip of bare shirt-tail. Sleeves stay down. Nobody in the history of masquerade has looked better with rolled cuffs.
The cut is tailored-slim through the body. If you are between sizes, size up - a baroque print that pulls across the chest loses its symmetry and the scrollwork bends where it should flow.
What kind of mask goes with a printed shirt?
A plain one. Matte black, half-face, held on a ribbon or a stick. The shirt is already the decoration; a gold filigree mask on top of a gold filigree shirt is two soloists and no orchestra. If you want one point of contrast, a plain white Colombina against the black baroque shirt is a very good look. Leave the feathered, jewelled and full-face masks to the people who did not bring a print.
| Element | Do | Don't |
|---|---|---|
| Shirt | Black-ground baroque, plumage or stained-glass print, fully buttoned | Ruffled fronts, lace cuffs, anything sold as a costume |
| Jacket | Plain black single-breasted, or a velvet dinner jacket in black or bottle green | Frock coats, capes, a second print |
| Trousers | Black wool, flat front, natural waist, a slight break | Jeans, breeches, anything with a stripe |
| Shoes | Black leather Oxfords or Chelsea boots, polished that afternoon | Trainers, buckled pilgrim shoes, brown anything |
| Mask | Matte black or plain white half-mask | Feathers, jewels, full-face, plague doctor |
What not to wear to a masquerade ball
- A ruffled or lace-fronted shirt - it is a costume, and everyone will know where you bought it.
- Two prints at once. Printed shirt or printed jacket, never both.
- A jewelled, feathered or full-face mask over a printed shirt.
- Open buttons. The print is a panel; keep it whole.
- A cape, a cane or a top hat unless you are in the cast.
- Brown shoes with a black baroque shirt - the gold in the print needs black leather beneath it.
- A skull print. Save it for the 31st.
- Trainers, however white, however expensive.
Three masquerade edits, built from Claudio Lugli
The Palazzo. The Baroque Dynasty Print Shirt, buttoned to the collar, under a plain black velvet dinner jacket, black wool trousers, black patent Oxfords and a matte black half-mask on a ribbon. This is the full masquerade and it costs you nothing in dignity. From the Claudio Lugli Printed Shirts Collection.
The Carnival. The Peacock Plumage Print Shirt with a plain black single-breasted jacket, black Claudio Lugli Fitted Chinos, black Chelsea boots and a plain white Colombina mask. Teal and orange under candlelight; the whole room will ask where it came from.
The Warm-Weather Masquerade. For a heated marquee or a venue abroad, the Baroque Bloom Short Sleeve Shirt from the Claudio Lugli Short-Sleeve Prints Collection, tucked into black Claudio Lugli Fitted Chino Shorts only if the invitation is a garden party by day; by night, swap to black chinos and keep the mask matte.
Where does the masquerade sit in the dark-season calendar?
Between now and Halloween on Saturday 31 October, the London invitations come in three waves: the charity masquerade in late September and early October, the Halloween ball on the weekend of the 30th and 31st, and the Venetian-themed New Year's Eve parties that start selling tickets in November. One baroque shirt covers all three, which is why we put it on the cover of the glitterball season edit and why it appears again in the complete party shirt guide. Buy it once, wear it three times, and the mask changes each night.
Do you have to wear a mask to a masquerade ball?
Yes, at least on arrival - a plain black half-mask held on a stick satisfies the rule without hiding the shirt.
Can I wear a printed shirt to a black-tie masquerade?
Yes: a black-ground baroque tuxedo-style shirt under a black dinner jacket is the correct answer, and a colourful one is not.
What colour shirt is best for a masquerade?
Black with gold, teal or amber in the print - it reads as opulent under candlelight and disappears politely in photographs of everyone else.
Should the mask match the shirt?
No - the mask stays plain so the shirt stays the decoration.
Can I wear a masquerade outfit to a Halloween party?
Yes, and it will be the best outfit there; add the mask and you have met the dress code without a costume.
How does a baroque shirt fit?
Cut tailored-slim through the body; if you are between sizes, size up so the scrollwork lies flat.
